When you’re looking a louder sound system or just more fidelity of any car audio system, more than likely you are going to need and amplifier. At ThunderEletronics.Net we strive to bring you quality 5-channel amplifiers and electronic crossovers. So, before you Google subwoofer amplifiers at Walmart take a look at our inventory. They say that the car stereo is the hearth of a system. If that is the case, the amplifiers are the lungs. The amp’s quality and power have a lot to do with the overall performance of the system and whether you are looking to replace or upgrade we’re confident you will find a Class-D amps and DSPs to fit your budget at ThunderEletronics.Net.

Choosing a Car Amplifiers

Now, when shopping for a car amplifier, it is very easy to get distracted and sometimes confused with all the numbers and fancy jargon. However, choosing a cam amplifier is pretty straightforward. Here are a few tips to make your decision a little easier.

Car Amp Typology

Several popular amplifier typologies exist for home audio, home theater, and pro audio. But, for car audio, the choice is between A/B class and Class-D. While many consider an A/B class car amplifier to be old technology, they are still quite popular in the 12-volt industry. Why? Well, many audiophiles will tell you an A/B class amplifier sound more natural and warm. I happen to agree. However, Class-D technology has come a long way. Still, there are issues with the amount of EMI they introduce into the power system, one which is responsible for everything from computer malfunction to alternator failure.

Nevertheless, Class-D has a lot to be desired. For example, they are super fast and can give you quick, snappy bass audiophile seek. They are also more efficient. It is not rare for a Class-D to be 80 – 90% efficient. That means they are less taxing on your charging system.

RMS Vs. Peak Power

As previously mentioned, the car audio industry loves inflated and 100% FAKE peak power numbers. It is not rare to bench test an amplifier that says on the box 1000 watts max, but it only puts out 100 RMS. Before buying an amplifier, look for 3^rd party bench test number. Several YouTube channels are dedicated to this – search for “amp dyno test.” Also, be realistic about how much power your car can handle, and you never want to run your amp at 100% capacity. If you want to listen to 100 watts of continuous power, it is ideal to get an amplifier rated at 150 watts or more. That is even if your speakers can’t handle it. The number one reason for burned speakers is distortion caused by amplifiers running at 80 to 90% capacity.

Impedance Capability

Not all amps are designed to play bass and not all amps like low impedance. If you already have speakers, make sure to buy an amplifier capable or stable at whatever impedance of your system. The same goes in reverse. If you already have an amp and are looking to buy speakers, getting the suitable impedance will ensure that your system will last and that you get the best sound quality.

Amplifier Features

Rare is the case where you will run a car amplifier at full range. More often than not, the amp will be running in a low pass or high pass mode. Getting an amp with the desired crossover points and features can save you money and be an overall performance advantage. Adding things into your signal path can add distortion, engine noise, and other issues commonly found in a car audio system.